Tempting kebabs, scented biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The historic city in northern India of Lucknow has forever been a haven for gastronomes, with residents and visitors alike swearing by its exquisite cuisine.
An International Accolade
In a recent announcement, UNESCO designated it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – placing it on a select group of global cities and igniting hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a worldwide network of cities cities across more than 100 countries dedicated to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The honor "demonstrates its centuries-old culinary traditions and vibrant culinary scene," according to a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was selected in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 cities worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this venerable city comes as little surprise to its inhabitants or avid food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO recognition, this beloved, chaotic, and vibrant city – the capital of India's biggest state – is at last in the global gaze for what has always shaped its soul: an profound passion for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a constant conversation from morning until night in many homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are often assessed by the standard of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Royal Culinary Legacy
The City of the Nawabs – as it's widely known after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is noted for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, evolved, and raised to extraordinary levels in their royal kitchens.
These royal kitchens were centers of gastronomic creativity, merging Iranian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were fashioned. As the tale is told that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an elderly nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His cooks processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it required no chewing.
But perhaps the most significant contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, slow heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with a flour paste.
Beyond Kebabs and Biryani
In addition to the famous kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is far more than kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just highlights seasonal produce but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Almost on every corner, there are tiny kiosks and carts – lesser-known gems that are immensely loved by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start gathering from the crack of dawn at a legendary tea stall to get a piping hot cup of milky masala chai, offered in kulhads, along with fluffy buns lathered with freshly churned white butter.
In the morning, one can head to a simple joint operating in the old city area of Aminabad. Nearly 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also presents unique treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and demanding. The artisan beats the milk and then sets it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its unique airy feel.
On cold mornings, street vendors can be seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of but note that their younger generation are unwilling to take up the skill.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its lesser-known eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – shaped by family-run food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is anticipated, will inspire more people globally to discover these tales and experience the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
